Labels: consumer diaries, DL and Co, escada, good earth, ninotchka, romeo and juliet, the decemberists, trappist

4/30/2009 [4]

René Magritte, Black Magic (1933-1934)*.

Labels: catherine deneuve, jean claude ellena, l'artisan parfumeur, lily, magritte, myrna loy, ozonics, perfume notes, serge lutens, vanilla

4/27/2009 [0]

Labels: anne valerie hash, fashion notes, roberto cavalli, yves saint laurent

4/27/2009 [1]

Labels: desert island

4/26/2009 [11]

Labels: beauty notes, gosh cosmetics

4/25/2009 [3]

Labels: fashion notes, yves saint laurent

4/24/2009 [1]

Labels: balmain, cartier, chanel, frederic malle, guerlain, ingmar bergman, jean patou, l'artisan parfumeur, limbourg brothers, miller harris, serge lutens, the mnemonic sense, vero profumo, ysl

4/23/2009 [13]

Labels: culture notes, lee gainer

4/22/2009 [16]

Jewellery figures in a minor subplot in Mansfield Park, although Freudian critics have had a field day with its image of two gold chains, one too thick, one "just right." Both rustic and delicate, Cathy Waterman's tree pendant brings to mind Fanny's (and Austen's) Romantic influences, her rare rhapsodies about nature, her identification with the country.

Labels: cathy waterman, comrags, frederic malle, jane austen, maloles, most wanted, olivia giacobetti, smythe

4/20/2009 [7]

The original, of course

Make sure you have plenty of time, otherwise, go to a salon and let the manicurist know that you want a speedy job. Trim nails. Add half a cup of milk to a bowl of warm water; it helps to soften the skin with lactic acid as you soak. Push back cuticles. Sweep a small amount of nail polish remover over nail to clear any oily residue. Apply a thin layer of basecoat (such as OPI Nail Envy) on dry nail; let dry. Roll—don't shake—polish between your palms, to ensure an even application without bubbling. For a normal-sized nail, scrape one side of the brush free of polish. Beginning with the pinkie, apply polish to the dominant hand (the overall finish will be more even). If you are prone to accidents, wait a few minutes before switching to the other hand. Wait about fifteen to thirty minutes (depending on the thickness of the polish), then apply the second coat. After thirty minutes to an hour, apply a topcoat (such as Seche Vite). Avoid doing anything that might smudge your nails for at least two hours, though after half an hour you can do most things provided they don't touch your nails.

The eyes are the most product-intensive and time-consuming area of all. Both brows and lashes are complicated enough, but many people feel overwhelmed particularly by eyeshadow: which tools to use, the dizzying array of shades, getting sufficient color "payoff", and whatever the difference is between a "crease" and a "wedge". We don't expect to cover every possibility since that would require its own post, but we will attempt at a little demystification.

The first thing to consider is your coloring, particularly the color of your eyes, though your hair and skin tone will also play a role. For example, brown eyes look equally well in the purple and green ranges, but if you are predominantly cool-toned, then purples are your better friend. Outside of neutrals, which theoretically anyone can wear, you will find yourself gravitating towards colors known as "complementary", because they contrast well with your coloring and therefore bring it out more fully. The next thing to consider is the eye shape. Eyes can be big or small, wide or close set (how far apart they are, an average distance is one eye's width in between), and other variations such as down-turned, double folds, glasses, deep set, bulging, round, hooded, almond, and so forth, all of which ensures that no set of rules is ever universally applicable. Finally, you want to consider how intense your eyes are naturally. If they are large and striking, such as Angelina Jolie's or Anne Hathaway's, a lighter touch, such as subtle mattes and a slick of eyeliner, is all that is required—more and it may look overdone. Someone with very small, dark eyes, such as most Asians and Lauren Bacall, is also likely to depend on eyeliner of the smokier variety and light, often shimmery, shades. If the most remarkable characteristic about your eyes is a deep crease, in the manner of Marilyn Monroe, then you are more likely to employ medium shades.

There are, nevertheless, four major techniques that are possible with eyeshadow: a WASH of pigment over the eyelid, CONTOUR the shape of the eye, DEFINE the lash line with dark pigment, and HIGHLIGHT the browbone and the inner corners of the eyes. Each has its own variations, depending on the look you're going for and your own eye shape. The easiest however is the wash, especially in a perenially useful shade such as a fleshtone neutral, about or a little lighter than your skin tone, with a complex shimmer (different colored and sized pigment particles, for the most light-reflective effect), perhaps with a touch of peach or rose if you want to bring out colorful eyes. You hardly even need a brush for this, since all it requires is a swipe across the lid. Next, try experimenting with liner. There's dramatic liquid (or gel), which can be swept in a "winged" look, vibrant shades that may otherwise be unwearable but flatter when restrained to a soft, smoky line, black pencil smeared around for a punk-rock look, or the most natural, dark brown pigment smudged as close to the lashes as possible, nay, between the lashes along the inner rim, a technique sometimes known as "tightlining". Finally, you may try add a little dimension with a little pigment swept into the crease (or the socket of the eye), or if you don't have a crease, a wedge, which is medium-toned pigment concentrated at the outer corner of the eye near the lash line, but diffused as it travels inwards and upwards. You needn't feel like you need to wear six shades at once, or tackle the meticulous layering of pigments that constitute the smoky eye right away; often, the most flattering look is just one or two carefully chosen elements.

Above all, this is good area for experimentation, so don't worry too much about "getting things right".

It depends entirely on which products you use. The most basic tools are:


1. a soft, fluffy, and tapered (as opposed to blunt) blush brush, about the size of the apple of one's cheeks, unless you don't use powder blush
2. a high-quality, porous sponge for face powder, for a much more controlled (and cost-effective) finish than a powder brush and not so heavy as a puff
3. eyelash curler, unless you don't wear mascara
4. tweezers are always useful to have around
5. a thin, flat synthetic brush for lining, angled is usually easier for a beginner
6. a soft, tapered medium-sized shadow brush, about 3/4 the size of your eyelid, for washes and blending
7. a smaller, denser brush for detail work, concentrated pigment, or smudging out liner
8. a domed, tapered "crease" brush, unless you don't have a crease (sometimes a wash brush can be employed a crease brush, depending on the shape; if it's angled or flat, it can maneuvered in more than just a wash)
9. a tiny, pointed concealer brush to cover blemishes, unless you don't break out often
10. a stiff, slanted brush for filling in brows, unless you don't need any definition or prefer a pencil
11. a lip brush, for filling in lips with precision and layering more pigment than fingers, sponges, and tubes can manage

It is unlikely that all of these tools are necessary. Brushes are most essential for eyeshadow application, but if Dick Page thinks only two brushes (not including liner), a larger and a smaller one, are necessary, that's good enough for us. Many of these functions can be covered by the cheapest and readiest tool of all, your fingers. Some products, such as liquid foundation, can be applied with fingers, sponges, sponges damped by a spritz of toner, flat synthetic brushes, and round natural brushes, and it's largely up to you which method works best (which is why we haven't included them in the list above).

Brushes tend to be expensive, but Sonia Kashuk makes excellent natural hair brushes at very reasonable prices, and art stores carry a variety of synthetic brushes. Be sure to take good care of them. Tweezers occasionally require sharpening, and eyelash curler pads and sponges need replacement. To clean brushes, soak them in a mixture of water and mild liquid soap (or shampoo), and "shampoo" the bristles with your fingers until the water runs clear. Rinse well, squeeze excess water with a towel, and allow to air dry.

Dain: No.

Dorothy: If you have more than a few blackheads, forget about getting rid of all of them. Unless you have a very thorough facialist, the best you can hope for is to control them through judicious cleansing and exfoliation -- and do not expect miracles. Sunscreen will help slow the development of wrinkles somewhat, and moisturizers will make them less apparent by plumping up the skin, but neither will eliminate them. Undereye circles worsen with tiredness, but if, like me, you've had them since childhood, accept that they aren't going to disappear. No cream will get rid of cellulite.

The Kindly One: Only if you see a derm.

The professional opinion is that you should stick within three darker shades of your color. Going lighter, darkening more than three shades, and correcting damage are processes best left to the experienced. Otherwise, the package directions are sufficient. Follow exactly. If your hair is long and thick, plastic clips are always useful. To prevent damage and add shine, apply dye to dirty, oily hair, or coat strands with a good hair oil before coloring hair. Also, it may be wise to begin with demi-permanent dye, which is easier to fix, the first go round and then graduate to permanent (The Kindly One: "The best dyes I've used are Schwarzkopf, though I don't know how easy they are to buy in this country.") Good ventilation always helps.

We understand that the sheer array of possibility that faces you at the store can be a little dizzying, so we've attempted to choose products that are easy to use at the beginning level. They are all good products, nevertheless, please think of them as starting points rather than ultimate wünderprodukten.

All beauty begins with the skin, so your first priority is to find a good skincare routine and stick to it. Skincare is itself something of a maze, but once you've determined your skin type and the needs of your lifestyle (while there are some great products out there, they may be time-consuming and expensive), a good cleanser and moisturizer is imperative. Here at Ars Aromatica, we're great fans of DHC Deep Cleansing Oil (Dorothy and Dain use it exclusively): it cleanses thoroughly, including all traces of stubborn eye makeup, yet gently, without ever stripping skin, plus it's definitely cost-effective and easy to use. Moisturizers are more variable, depending on your skin type, but we like them as simple and basic as possible. As a light moisturizer, we unanimously approve of Complex 15, and Embryolisse makes an excellent rich cream. You may want a moisturizer with SPF instead, such as Olay Complete SPF 30 (the "Sensitive Skin" formulation is fragrance-free), which is widely available. Once you've established these essentials, it's really just a matter of finetuning; you add products according to your specific needs.

Makeup tends to be more variable, and we had quite an extended discussion before we came to these choices. Certain products are invariable, regardless of whether you favor a very natural look or full-on drama. These we call "unmakeup". Almost everyone benefits from a little undereye concealer, because the darkness under the eyes is the weakest part of the face. Not to piss off Clé de Peau fans, but Pixi Illuminate and Conceal is just as good for about half the price, though its packaging and shade range could certainly be improved, and it comes with an equally excellent tinted moisturizer with broad spectrum SPF 20. Not everyone needs foundation, but if you're prone to shine, dust on a little MAC Blot. Unless you've been blessed with naturally full and well shaped arches, brows are also a weak point for most faces (for most of our Color Me In candidates, unkempt and poorly shaped brows is the most consistent issue), but are often neglected because the execution is rather tricky. Seek a professional shaping if you feel hesistant about plucking your own, and keep them well defined with a brow pencil such as Shu Uemura Hard Formula and well groomed with clear mascara. You've probably already met a mascara or two in your lifetime, so we won't attempt to nominate one, but a rich brown eyeliner, like Jane Brownie Points, is no less useful, and lends subtle, natural definition when applied right at the lashline, or, with a heavier hand, gives eyes a sultry smokiness without the harshness of black.

Blush straddles the divide between unmakeup and makeup. Yes, it's color, but god forbid if anyone comments on your blush, then you know you're wearing too much, or possibly one of those glittery starlet-wannabe shades. The right shade of blush brightens your entire face—skin is creamier, eyes are brighter—and often a good rule of thumb, when selecting a natural, everyday lipcolor, is simply to choose a lipstick that's slightly more intense than your favorite blush. Since blush ultimately works with your coloring, we cannot suggest any one shade, but we can point to Becca Creme Blush as a great place to begin. The shades are complex and forgiving, the formula blends easily into the skin for a natural, from-within glow, and it lasts well, for a cream formula. As for a rich and sophisticated lipcolor that flatters most colorings, Chanel Attitude Rouge Allure is a worthy (but not infallible) candidate, without the blandness of many other so-called "universals", and the formula is sublime, so silky and light on the lips.

Finally, NARS Rated R Duo, that acid-bright combination of cerulean and chartreuse, as a cogent demonstration of makeup as something that's just plain frivolous fun.

When it comes to pulling it all together, it's best to watch it in action. This instructional video from Estée Lauder is a trifle product-heavy in more ways than one, but the result is very pretty and polished, which is the look you'll be aiming for as a beginner.

Labels: audrey hepburn, beauty notes

4/19/2009 [2]

My commendations to the airbrush team.

The main determination is the amount of sebum that your skin produces, which itself may vary depending on climate, age, and products used. So apply the standard skin test: wash your face, then wait ten minutes before moisturizing. If you produce too little, then your skin feels fragile and tight, the texture is mostly fine (small pores), and your skin is dry. If you produce too much, then your skin feels slick and slimy, the texture is mostly coarse (large pores), and your skin is oily. Normal skin is ideally balanced between these two extremes, and combination, as the name implies, is a combination of these three major skin types (dry, oily, normal). It is worth noting that "mature", "sensitive", and "acne" are not actually skin types, but specific skin concerns. Though it is true that sensitive skin tends to be dry and acne-prone skin tends to be oily, this is not always the case, and overall it is best think of skin types (in which you adjust your cleanser and moisturizer) and skin concerns (in which you adjust treatments) separately for optimum results.

The easiest test is blush, since it interacts with all the colors of your face. Hie yourself to a NARS counter, and apply Desire (cool bright pink) and Exhibit A (strong warm vermilion) at clownish strength, or if you haven't got a NARS counter nearby, try applying a heavy dose of Stila Convertible Colors in Gladiola (the warm extreme) and Fuschia (the cool extreme). They will both look bad, but one will look less bad, unless you are very neutral indeed. If the cool pink flatters you best, you are cool, and would look better in pink/berry/mauve/blue tones. If the warm orange flatters you best, you are warm, and would look better in peach/orange/coral/green tones. Be wary of any product deemed "universally flattering" in advertising or magazine boilerplate; although products do exist that flatter a large range of skintones, truly universal flatterers are rare, and lipsticks and blushes that "adjust to your skintone" tend to be nothing more than sheer fluorescent pinks that deepen upon contact with the skin. The blush litmus test may give you a good idea, but it takes practice on all areas of the face to find what works. Dain spent years thinking she was warm because every self-made pundit insisted upon it, and found that cool shades actually give more balance to her coloring, while The Kindly One wears cool blushes best, but prefers warm shadows to enhance her eye color.

We wouldn't advise you, however, to take these distinctions too seriously. It's just makeup; should it go awry, you can always wash it off. The best way to find what works best for you, and go out there to the counters and experiment. Brush off the hovering SAs as politely as you can, and paint yourself red... or blue... or silver... or a silvery reddish-pink with blue undertones. You get the picture. Soon you will learn that some shades are immediately more attractive, that there are options beyond those boring old neutrals, that some products are technically superior because of the smoothness of its texture (easier to blend), overall longevity, and the complexity of the various tones and shimmers.

In the perfume world, more often than not, to call a perfume "wearable" is a kind of backhanded insult, but just because a perfume has pleasant manners easy to appreciate and wide commercial distribution does not mean they are less well made. If you are simply looking for a nice perfume to wear, that isn't quite as popular as Angel or Coco Mademoiselle or Light Blue, these five might do: Narciso Rodriguez EDT (clean, fluid skin musks with a hint of flowers), Estée Lauder Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia (heady and indolic white flowers), Gucci Envy (spare, abstract, lucid, and very green), Mauboussin for Women (candied fruits with spices, rich as molten gold), and Thierry Mugler Cologne (freeeeeeesh, green leaves and soap, but holds together well).

On the other hand, if you are looking for a new hobby, perfume is a particularly fun one. Reviews are useful as basic guides (peppered throughout the web, not to mention Turin and Sanchez, for hours of bitchy amusement), but every nose is a little bit different, and there is really no substitute for smelling things on your own skin. Perfumes depend as much on experience as they do on personal taste; the more you sniff, the easier it becomes to identify notes and genres, and the better you will be able to distinguish scents you like from scents you love. Samples are essential to this hobby, and more obscure and rare juices can be obtained from a decant service such as The Perfumed Court. It is very much an associative practice. Even with the most beautiful, complex, influential, interesting, and expensive parfum, it may not necessarily suit you, and there is nothing wrong with not being able to appreciate it, because perfumes rarely stand alone. You won't be able to distinguish between jasmine de Grasse, Egyptian absolute, and hedione right away, but all the same we suggest these ten standards to start you off. These are not necessarily the most accessible, and you may not settle upon them as your favorites, but as representations of their respective genres, they will serve admirably as a reference.


1. Guerlain Jicky, EDT of any vintage is fine. NB: the first modern perfume still extant, its influence on masculine perfumery, lavender, vanillin, coumarin, and civet.
2. Chanel No. 5, best tried in parfum (the EDP and EDT are different). NB: aldehydes, superb quality jasmin de Grasse, superb quality rose de mai, still the most luxurious perfume ever made.
3. Serge Lutens (sometimes Shiseido) Féminité du Bois, usually only the EDP exists. NB: Serge Lutens' best work and the inspiration for his Eaux Boisées, ISO E Super (a radiant, velvety woody smell), a superb introduction to both the gourmand genre and the niche world.
4. YSL Y, usually available as EDT. NB: oakmoss, largely unadorned compared to other famous chypres, but perhaps the more gracious for its modesty.
5. Guerlain Eau de Guerlain, available as EDC only. NB: minty fresh lemon, perfectly made citrus, simple in effect but difficult in execution.
6. Robert Piguet Fracas, a single drop of EDP will go a very long way. NB: intense, flourescent, man-eating white flowers, the reference tuberose, Germaine Cellier's bold style.
7. Frédéric Malle Vétiver Extraordinaire, one concentration only. NB: an example of the single-note focus that's very popular these days in niche perfumery, with an arbitrary choice of vetiver because we happen to love this one.
8. Jean Patou Colony, EDT. NB: tropical fruits in the form of pineapple, a much maligned genre but nothing short of stunning because of a sober chypre base.
9. Vero Profumo Onda, parfum concentration only. NB: black leather, phenolic acid, patchouli, animalic vetiver, so bizarre and unwashed it borders on unwearable (like many obscure hobbies, there is no doubting a certain emphasis on strange and unusual accords).
10. YSL Opium, EDT is quite potent, parfum is softer. NB: the oriental genre at a logical extreme, spicy "eugenol" (a component in carnations and cloves), incense resins and balsams, a soapy muguet core for structure.

Dorothy wisely advises, "Unless you have unlimited money and cupboard space, do not buy a full-priced bottle of any scent until you've lusted after it for a couple of months", but it must be admitted that I tend to be more precipitous about full bottles.

Before going in for a drastic cut, take two months to really take care of your hair, with an absolute minimum of chemical or heat processing. Figure out the specific needs of your hair and the products that will address them. Having healthy hair is ultimately better than having a really cool cut that will look dated in two years, and it will also help determine how your hair naturally lays, in turn determining how to cut it.

It's also important to differentiate between hair cuts and hair styles. There are essentially only a few foundational hair cuts, the rest is all particulars, such as the amount of layering. A good hair cut can be styled in several ways, and will look different according to the individual's hair color and texture. A hair style is different; there's only one way to wear it. You've got to keep it updated with constant visits to the stylist's, and often it is so distinctive that you run the risk of looking dated within a few years, e.g. the Rachel layers, the Farrah wings, the Dorothy Hamill wedge, the Rihanna crop. It's too complicated to look at fifty different cuts and decide which is the best for you, partly because it's not really fifty cuts, really just variations on the same seven. It's better to get a basic cut that suits your particular face (and frame) and hair type, as well as the demands of your lifestyle (long hair requires less maintenance in terms of regular cuts and overall styling, but it also demands gallons of conditioner, and vice versa for short hair). You can always update it a little, but it's nothing overtly trendy if it's just a subtle variation on that basic cut that flatters you best.

Dress well (a nice coat is a sure bet) to discourage the pretensions of snooty shop girls, but also for comfort. Flats without socks, so you can try on clothes easily, very little makeup (if at all), and no perfume. It's important to be courteous no matter what, but firm. After a while, they will get the message that you want to play around. Don't let them rush you, unless the store is closing soon. If you go someplace particularly posh, it's best to act with a sense of entitlement, since they tend (for whatever reason, service seems to drop sharply in quality the more expensive the place) to pick on any visible sign of discomfort. Always remember, you are the customer, after all. Most salespeople are genuinely friendly and willing to take direction, but if you encounter one who isn't, don't take it personally, and don't allow yourself to be pushed into purchases you're not sure about. It helps if you're really in the mood to go shopping, with companions who enjoy it equally (I've never understood why girls drag their boyfriends to places like Sephora), and have got specific goals (how much you want to spend, the amount of time you've got, what kind of product you're looking for, which brand you want to see, etc.) and stick within those parameters.

The best place to shop for makeup, according to our experience, has been Nordstroms, though this is exclusively an American company. The variety of brands is good, the staff tends to be friendly, if rather overeager for commissions, and they are required to make samples of any perfume or skincare product for you if you ask.

Well, that depends on your definition of "better". On purely moral terms, it is an absurd conceit. Wearing a $900 organic cotton dress from Philip Lim is not going to repair the ozone layer; try living without plastics (it's very, very, very hard), not driving, and eating meat (land use), and then you can boast about your carbon footprint. But it is true that organic skincare tends to be better, in terms of performance. This is not necessarily because botanicals are superior (though, say, jojoba oil and shea butter are better for your skin than mineral oil and petroleum jelly), but the simple fact that when people care about the ingredients they use, they're just going to make more conscientious products overall, a phenomenon not unlike the "niche" explosion in perfumery. It well to approach natural skincare with a grain of salt. Just because it is of natural origin (so is tobacco, it's not particularly healthy), doesn't mean that you won't react badly to it. Natural skincare is best at maintaining healthy, balanced skin, but not for serious concerns that require a prescription.

"Clean" shampoos tend not to strip the hair of color as quickly, though you sometimes need to give up the psychological need for something that foams. Natural conditioners are less likely to leave build-up (anything "-cone"), but also tend not to soften and moisturize as well, and again, lacks the rich texture that is often expected of a conditioner. Styling products, outside of simpler, easy-styling leave-in products, tend to be rather lacking in terms of performance. If you want your hair to go green, it's going to require some live-and-let-live on your part.

Other than mineral makeup, which, like many popular and widely disseminated trends, is not always as natural and gentle as may meet the eye, the performance of natural cosmetics, truly natural cosmetics, tends to be mediocre at best, because qualities like longevity and textures and color payoff tend to depend on petrochemical technologies. But because of the greater demand for more natural products, we may see some improvements in this area.

Labels: beauty notes, paris hilton

4/17/2009 [0]

Joan Bevelacqua, Ophelia (2005).

Labels: carine gilson, frederic malle, guerlain, heliotrope, iris, jacques guerlain, joan belevacqua, joan fontaine, luca turin, michael edwards, perfume notes, violet, ysl

4/15/2009 [11]

Labels: culture notes

4/14/2009 [3]

Why? Where did he get it? Was it a badge – an ornament – a charm – a propitiatory act? Was there any idea at all connected with it? It looked startling round his black neck, this bit of white thread from beyond the seas. (ibid)

In such an unexpected elegant of get-up that in the first moment I took him for a sort of vision. I saw a high starched collar, white cuffs, a light alpaca jacket, snowy trousers, a clear necktie, and varnished boots. No hat. Hair parted, brushed, oiled, under a green-lined parasol held in a big white hand. He was amazing, and had a penholder behind his ear." (ibid).

Labels: balmain, bette davis, joan crawford, joseph conrad, lipstick queen, manolo blahnik, mizuki, most wanted, nars, nina ricci

4/13/2009 [5]

Labels: bat for lashes, blur, culture notes, music, the presets

4/11/2009 [3]

Labels: designer index, stella mccartney

4/10/2009 [4]

Labels: beauty notes, claus porto, l'occitane, trader joe's

4/08/2009 [8]

Labels: cat on a hot tin roof, culture notes, disney, la strada, sophie scholl, the elephant man

4/07/2009 [5]

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